The next morning, I psyched myself up throughout breakfast, at times questioning if I really wanted to leap off the bridge. My husband was right when he reassured me and told me that I already had my mind made up and there was no reason in questioning my decision. We arrived at the Face Adrenaline office and I skimmed some paperwork before signing my life away. I was thankful that I just missed a group of jumpers heading out to the bridge so I had to wait about an hour. I wanted to see what I was getting myself into. Fifteen minutes prior to walking out to the bridge I gathered at a gazebo where Face Adrenaline employees dressed in red jump suits helped me step into a safety harness. When he asked me if it was too tight, I replied that it was not tight enough. He laughed and said I was fine. This did not reassure me as I walked with a group of strangers along a trail to the bridge.

Just prior to the bridge, our guide stopped us and gathered us close as he gave us a safety briefing. I was surprised when the safety brief only included staying within the yellow tape on the bridge. And then he advised us about making the big jump. We were instructed to jump off and out as if doing a belly flop into a pool. I was surprised that it was not more of a swan dive. Everyone I saw jump looked effortless and graceful jumping off the bridge. That was it; the only advise we were given. I was shocked and terrified at this point.

We continued our walk to the bridge and stepped up onto a wire mesh cage which hung along the bottom of the concrete bridge and led to the arch. As we walked the bridge shook as large semis drove along it and other vehicle honked their horn cheering on jumpers. I made the mistake of looking down past the wire frame of the bridge we were on. Oh WOW! It was a long way down with jagged rocks and a brown colored river. What did I get myself in to? I jumped out of planes previously but this was different. I had no one there to reassure me because my husband, who is afraid of heights, stayed at the viewing area to watch and take photographs. I repeatedly asked myself what I was doing there. We arrived to the center of the bridge and we were given our order. I was relieved that I was number three and not the first jumper. My heart started beating faster as loud upbeat music blasted around us. I was excited, nervous, and amazed by the beautiful view that surrounded me.

I was “on deck” and did not have much time to think about what was before me. The safety placed padding around my ankles to protect my legs from rope burn. I took my place on the next seating where the safety showed me the six foot, three inch wide strap that would hold me on the end of the bungee rope. “That was the only thing that was holding me, this was crazy!” I saw them attach another strap to my harness as a secondary safety, this made me feel slightly better. The safety directed me to stand up and helped me toward the edge. I whispered to him that I was really, really, really nervous. He smiled at me and said, “you should not be jumping if you were not nervous, don’t worry this will be great.” I took another deep breath as he and another safety helped me so my toes were just over the edge. I didn’t have time to look down and focused on the view and performing the perfect belly flop. The safeties let go of me and yelled, “FIVE, FOUR, THREE, TWO, ONE, BUNGY!”

On queue, I jumped as far out as I could with my arms raised over my head. I have no idea if I closed my eyes or what happened those first few seconds. I think I held my breath for the six-second free fall. I felt the rope stop me at then end of the fall and thanked God that the small but strong strap held on to my ankles and my shoes did not fall off. I did not feel my body snap up like others I saw, but rather I was peacefully pulled back up by the rope. I looked out over the canyon and river below. It was beautiful, absolutely beautiful and was thankful I had the opportunity to see this part of the world upside down hanging from the tallest bridge in Africa. I hung from the rope repeating to myself, “I did it; I can’t believe I did this”.

The jump was exhilarating and unbelievable. This was definitely a great experience and now when someone asks me if I would jump off a bridge, I can say, “why yes, yes I have”. If you are thinking about doing a bungy jump, my recommendations is just do it, trust the safeties and take a leap of faith.

More about Bloukrans Bungy Jumping

Read another client’s account of the big jump from Bloukrans Bridge.

The sun was already beyond the horizon when we arrived so we had our sundowner with the group discussing the anticipated evening. Brandon gave us the grand tour showing us the small quaint bathroom with plenty of water and toilet, which I was quite thankful for. And then for the open air bedroom which sat on a platform above the bush and included everything we needed for the evening. The only rule was not to go beyond the wood door Brandon shut behind him on his way out. There was no question about it; we had no intentions of risking our fate to the wildlife below.

I do not recall ever seeing so many stars in my life. We pointed out several constellations to include Orion, Cassiopeia, Leo, Sagittarius, Ursa Major, Ursa Minor, and others. The constellations shifted throughout the night as new stars took shape. The Milky Way was sprinkled across the sky forming a hazy band. It was breathtaking; I was in awe the entire evening. Knowing the stars are out every night, I realized that I certainly do not take enough time in my everyday busy life to enjoy and appreciate the beautiful view surrounding us.

I was not scared of the animals, but often startled throughout the night as we listened to the animals settle in for a good nights sleep and others awaken. I knew I was safe in this Tree House when other animals were sleeping with one eye open as hunters were carefully moving upon their prey. We definitely heard baboons, owls, impalas in heat, and many indescribable sounds throughout the night. The brush below us shook several times and as we scanned the flashlight we saw eyes staring boldly back at us, but could not identify who the eyes belonged to.

As the sun rose, the wildlife also stirred making more sounds awaking us from our somewhat peaceful slumber. Wet dew covered everything causing a slight chill in the air as we pulled the blankets back. We stared out into the wide open bush we could see in the morning light, hoping to get a glimpse of a herd of elephants, giraffes, impala or any wildlife for that matter. A blanket of fog hovered over the open bush making it difficult to identify any animals. We enjoyed coffee, tea, rolls, and fruit as we watched the sun rise. The sun lit the sky up and we knew it would be another beautiful day on our safari adventure in South Africa. Our peaceful moment was broken by the slight purr of an engine getting louder and louder as it drew near. Our Tree House adventure was ended as the Land Rover arrived with our safari mates waving and taking pictures of us as we descended down the stairs. Our safari mates were anxious to hear about the evening and the only thing we could do was recommend that they experience it for themselves.

Written by: Al Hermansen and Mary Strand

Have you ever dreamed of spending a few nights inside a Medieval Fortress? We did in Carcassonne, France and it was incredible. This was a case where the expectations were less than reality as all publications we read did not give it its full due. La Cite is the fortified city in Carcassonne and got its start as a fortress in Roman times, eventually becoming what it is today. It is now the most completely restored medieval fortress in all of Europe. As we walked around in awe my thoughts were of King Arthur and Robin Hood, only to find out that it was used for the filming of Kevin Costner’s Robin Hood. It is that kind of a place.

We arrived by train from Arles and took a mini-train from the train station to La Cite and before our arrival we got our first glimpse of this incredible fortress. We had to pinch ourselves because it dawned on us that we were actually going to be staying inside of this incredible place. With no cars allowed, we walked across the draw bridge and entered La Cite – wow, we were here and it was marvelous. It was mid-day and crowded on the narrow street that takes you inside La Cite and then on to our Bed & Breakfast. Our lodging was wonderful, with a view from our window of the Basilica – how often can you get such a great view from any hotel room? Our host and proprietor, Joanna, gave us a very thorough introduction to the fortress, including a nice map and places she recommends we see and do. We did them all. We ate every meal outside as the weather was ideal, the people watching fantastic and the scenery was truly historic and monumental.

Now for a little history of La Cite from the book 1,000 Places To See Before You Die by Patricia Shultz: It is surrounded by the longest walls in Europe (nearly 2 miles), a fairy tale concoction of turrets, watchtowers, battlements, and drawbridges begun in the 6th century. It would take thirteen centuries of alterations, additions, and embellishments by the Romans, Gauls, Visigoths, Arabs, Franks, and French royalty before the double ramparts encircling this prosperous fortified city, the largest in Europe, was completed. The lices, a path between the concentric inner and outer fortifications, offers views within the preserved citadel as well as the lush green countryside. La Cite Medieval was a prosperous place in the Roman era due to its location on a trade route between Toulouse and Narbonne. The fortress was restored in the 19th century and is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

The only tour we took was of the Chateau that was the home of French royalty and gave you a better view of how the fortress was protected and how people lived so many years ago. They provide a self guided tour using headphones and it is a great learning experience. The photo to the left is from one of the watchtowers and shows how well protected it was from outside invasion. We also visited the Basilique St. Nazaire, which is very beautiful and there is no charge to enter. During our tour we listened to a trio of Russian men sing accapella that was simply beautiful. The acoustics made their performance even more compelling. In the evening we enjoyed walking between the inner and outer fortifications as the fortress was lighted by huge lights that gave the impression of torches – which is how it was illuminated in olden days. We sat on a bench and talked about what life must have been like for those living inside. We always want to put ourselves in the role of royalty or as a knight, but just think of all the people who worked to maintain the fortress, the craftsmen, shop keepers and on it goes. It was fun and magical all at once.

On this trip we started in Nice and loved ‘old town’ and took day trips to Eze Village, Cap Ferrat and Villefranch – all great fun. From Nice we took a train to Arles and stayed five nights with day trips by train to Avignon and Nimes. We also rented a car for a day trip to Les Baux. We truly enjoyed every bit of our trip so far and then we landed in Carcassonne by train and arrived in La Cite overwhelmed by this incredibly beautiful and historic medieval fortress. This was truly one of the most unique places we have visited in Europe and the fact that we stayed inside the fortress made it an unforgettable trip.

This last photo was taken as we walked back from the city of Carcassonne, an easy walk or accessible by bus, and crossing the river via the Old Bridge. This is the view you get when arriving by bus from the train station.

Our consensus – you really should go! We know you will love it regardless of your interest in history; just the fact of staying inside a beautifully restored medieval fortress should be incentive alone.

The slideshow below features some of Anne’s beautiful watercolor paintings. Enjoy.

For more information

To learn more about travel to Australia and New Zealand, look for our March article in Tonka Times magazine or contact us.

The Great White Shark Safari Experience

Tues Sept 14, 2010
Kleinbaai, South Africa (near Hermanus)

It’s spring time in Africa, but some mornings still feel like winter. I know I was glad to have a warm coat, hat, and gloves while on Safari in the mornings. This day was no different. We woke up at 6:00 a.m. to start our journey, the temperature outside- under 10 degrees Celsius. One of our travel mates wasn’t feeling well and decided not to embark with us (perhaps she knew something we didn’t). Charlie, our travel guide, was prompt to pick us up at 6:45 a.m. We had a short ride to Kleinbaai; he always made sure we were ON TIME!

We arrived at The Great White House where our shark safari would begin. We were met by a very chipper woman who told us to grab some breakfast (included) as we waited for the others. Sixteen, in all, would be on our boat called Shark Fever. The others, who met up with us, were traveling from Cape Town (some 2 hours away). We watched a brief instructional video about the DOs and DON’Ts of the trip. Of course it’s always good when they yell……”and please make sure you sign the waiver form before you leave the building!”

A lot of things were buzzing through my head as we walked down to the dock. You never want to use the head (toilet) on a little boat- it’s never easy, especially when you are 6’6″. When you are nervous, before something like this, you never know what’s going to happen. Should I have worn a Depend undergarment today? My mates and I had our seasickness patch on the day prior; I wasn’t too concerned about that. This was our last day before flying back to the states. I reflected on what a wonderful trip it had been, JUST IN CASE I didn’t make it out alive.

We boarded Shark Fever, cast off from shore, and away we went. Our destination was 20-25 min. away, near Shark Alley (the place where Discovery tapes for Shark Week). The sea was calm, the Captain says, “It’s a great day for seeing sharks.” The sun was out and it started to warm up. The anchor was dropped. We were told to get into our wet suits as the cage, which held 6 people, was dropped into the water, next to the boat. A young man started to place chum in the water to attract the sharks. Within 5 min. the first shark had arrived. The Captain informed us, “Any shark you see today will be a Great White.”

Judy and I were ready! Ramesis, our other mate, decided to stay on the boat and take pictures. The cage top opened and Sara, one of the assistants, told me to climb in. I wasn’t scared, just full of adrenaline. This was my dream about to come true. We climbed in, the cage was shut, and Warren (the shark bait man) cast out a rope with fish heads attached. Your head stays above the water in the cage. As the spotters see a shark coming they yell, “Down to the bait” or whatever direction the shark might be coming from. You grab a breath, hold on to the bar inside the cage, and go down.

Visibility under the water was about 1-1.5 meters (from what I could tell). However, above the surface, it was closer to 4 meters or more. The water was cold (Atlantic Ocean), but we didn’t care. Only your hands, and part of your face, were exposed to the water/air. I carried my FLIP video with me to capture our adventure. Luckily, I was able to take footage above and below the surface.

One by one the sharks came to the boat. At one time we had 3 circling around us. The largest was a female, who was tagged, at 4.2 meters long. She was a monster. As you went under water, the bait was brought closer to the cage, and you got a good look into the eyes/mouth of these amazing creatures. They would swim inches from your face. I did hear a woman scream as the first one came by the cage. One guy got seasick and had to leave the cage. One shark had a hook on the inside of her lip. They would swim quickly by the cage; you had to be fast on your game. Many times you could hear/feel the shark hit the cage as it jostled you around- what POWER!

A few sharks breached out of the water for the bait. The large mouth opened, gums exposed, showing us their sharp, jagged teeth. Sharks continuously shed their teeth and new ones are replaced in a conveyor belt -type pattern. It has been said that some species of shark may lose approximately 35,000 teeth in a lifetime. The tooth fairy must be broke!

It was an experience I will never forget. We spent 3-4 hours in the water watching and admiring these prehistoric fish. The power of their jaws and the force of their tail, as they propelled through the water, was quite a sight. If you are seeking adventure, consider a cage dive with the Great Whites. Even television can’t bring to life what it feels like to be inches away from such a beautiful animal. Thanks Travel Beyond and a special THANK YOU to Pam Buttner.

Great White Cage Diving in False Bay, South Africa

“…I asked the bait guy to please make one open its mouth in front of me like “JAWS”. Then we dropped down, I held my breath and tada! There it was: a HUGE 9′ shark. It looked 20′ long to me, chasing the bait probably 7′ away from the cage. Next shark: big open mouth, right in front of our faces. It looked like it was going to eat us in one giant chomp. The teeth looked crooked and dirty like he was in bad need of a toothbrush. I came to the surface, laughing and ready to go down again. I thanked the bait guy for giving me what I came there for. Down we went again, and BAM! SMACK! A big one slammed his head into the cage inches from our hands; I screamed. Loud. So loud that Randy heard me. I popped up (still screaming), took a deep breath and went back down. I wanted him to come back and do it again. The adrenaline was pumping now and any thought of being cold was gone. It was so amazing… “

Private Vacation Rental in Riversdale, South Africa

“…This place is truly gorgeous landscape. Last night we watched the sun go down over green valley of lush indigenous vegetation. We hiked in to caves where bushman painted the walls over 300 years ago…

True pure beauty is waking up to the sounds of a farm knowing that you have babies waiting for you to take care of them. We have had the greatest couple of days being part of Chris Davies farm, land and spirit. My inner “tom boy” definitely surfaced and memories of farm life and how much I enjoy living in the middle of nowhere surrounded by fresh air, beautiful country and playful animals definitely was put front and center…”

World’s Highest Bungee Jump – Bloukrans Bungee Bridge

“…The fun part for me was watching everyone get ready to jump. Since I had done the Flying Fox, that meant I could be on the bridge with the 8-10 jumpers, all excited and nervous at the same time. The music was blaring and the hearts were pounding. One girl was even crying because she was so scared about her husband jumping.

I watched Randy hop to the edge. He was jumper #4 and the three before him really didn’t dive out the way the instructors were suggesting. Out he hopped and did the perfect swan dive. Down he went, 75MPH for 5 seconds to cover the 708 feet he just volunteered to dive off. Bounce, Bounce, Bounce… Hmmmm… Looked easy enough. They actually pull you back up, but that didn’t look so bad either.

My mind was thinking, “Hey- I’m here, I should do it..”. But I kept looking at the people who had jumped, and their eyes were red and they talked about pressure in their head. I was being my Miss Safety self and decided I didn’t want some major headache to keep me from the safari tomorrow so I didn’t jump. I’m mad at myself now. Guess I will have to come back to South Africa again and have it on my “to do” list to hit the Longest Bungee in the World…”

Luxury Safaris at at Phinda Vlei Lodge and Mala Mala Rattrays

“…We get even closer to the animals here it seems. Some of them are literally almost touchable. Randy could have touched a lion (but elected not to) and an elephant could have put his trunk in the vehicle if I would have had peanuts or something he wanted. Let’s put it this way-we can’t use the camera zoom lens as much here or you’d only see whiskers, tongues and teeth.”

“…The evening drive was phenomenal… We found a leopard with the 8 month cub. We had almost given up and then Randy heard the crunching of bones coming from a cluster of bushes and grass. The mommy leopard came out of the bushes with a Dahyka (small antelope) in her mouth and drug it up into the tree and just sort of hung it there. Then the baby jumped up clumsy-like into the tree to try to show us his climbing skills (not so good as he almost fell out). It was so interesting to watch the youngster interact with his mom (and us). He was a curious little guy and even thought he’s try to bite the vehicle’s tire. I am still in awe over the fact that these wild animals are so calm when they don’t feel threatened.

We finally tore ourselves away from the mom and cub and went off to see the Grey Go Away ( a bird that makes a noise that sounds like “go away”. We came across a huge litter of Dwarf Mongooses and even saw another Hyena. After that – time for a sundowner.. Get out of the rig, stretch our legs, grab a beer with our buddies and toast to a fabulous game sighting and a beautiful sunset.”

South African Fables

“…The African fable says a Wildebeest was made by taking bits and pieces from other animals…. The tail of a giraffe, the rear and stripes of a Zebra, the horns of a Kudu, the back of a Hyena….. I can’t look at them the same way anymore as I always thought they looked like a small Buffalo and now I see all of the animals in them….”

Cape Winelands Tour

“…Then we headed from Cape Town to our next destination – Franschhoek – to do some wine tasting. We took the scenic route through Stellenbosch (a wine and university town 30 min from Cape Town). It was such a pretty drive up and over a small pass until we arrived at our Bed and Breakfast only one hour from Cape Town. Our GPS worked SO well, it let us pick different roads instead of the most direct route so we could see the beautiful parts of this area…”

South Africa–A Trip of a Lifetime

“…It is nice to be “back in the States” – and excited to see everyone – but I must admit, I miss South Africa and the people there and Randy and I already are talking about when we can go back someday!! I HIGHLY recommend it. A trip of a lifetime for sure …”

Looking to plan your own African adventure? Let us know. We’d love to help.

Just wanted to say thank to you both for all of your help with our honeymoon; we just got back yesterday, and both agree that it was the most incredible trip we’ve ever taken.  Cape Town was great (we loved Kensington Place, especially since it was a little quieter and out of the way) and both Botswana and Mozambique were very special.

The game viewing at Chitabe exceeded all expectations, and Craig you were right that Little Vumbura is just wonderful.

Azura, I might add, was simply outstanding; try as we did, we couldn’t think of anything we’d do to change it.

All in all, it was a tremendous honeymoon, so thanks again to you both for going above and beyond.  I should add that everyone in Africa seems to know you guys, so you must be doing something right!

All the best

A few honeymoon photos…

Read about another client’s safari honeymoon experience in the Okavango Delta (Botswana); Johannesburg, South Africa and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

Is there such a thing?  Last year, our good friends and traveling companions agree that we did reach that dream – a month long trip thru Namibia and Botswana, all in Wilderness Safaris camps, seven in all. By way of background, the four of us met on a Lindblad Expeditions trip to Baja California nine years ago.  As sometimes happens, we “hit it off” and have traveled every year since, to destinations as different as Antarctica, Malawi, Chile from Patagonia to the Atacama, Tanzania off the beaten track, and Rajasthan and Bhutan.

A happy coincidence among the four of us is that three are not especially interested in planning trips while I revel in the opportunity.  Thanks to the skills, know-how, and attention to detail of Sue Rovegno at Travel Beyond, we’ve worked through, modified and finalized some fabulous trips – including our Ultimate Safari.  Africa “grabs you”, no question about it.

This trip was special in many ways – Namibia is a fascinating country, the second least densely populated country on earth (after Mongolia).  The open spaces, the unique ecosystem and wildlife and the fact that you can be off in incredibly remote areas and have a first-class operation, as are all the Wilderness Safaris camps we encountered, is a real plus.  The fact that our entire trip was built around their camps made coordination and transportation virtually seamless. We can’t say enough about all of the Wilderness Safaris operations, their staff and their whole approach to stewardship of the land, the inhabitants and all of the natural resources.  First class in every way!

We are conscious of how lucky we were to be able to make as extensive a trip as we did, spending nearly a month visiting seven different camps.  For anyone considering a shorter safari, any one of the camps or any combination would be well worthwhile.  All are unique and more than comfortable.

Our journey began with flights from the States to Frankfurt, with an overnight there – a buffer we like to include in case of weather issues.  From Frankfurt, a non-stop overnight flight to Windhoek, Namibia made for a very clean and simple start to our trip. A day in Windhoek prepared us for our flight to our first safari camp, Little Kulala, close to the famous red dunes of Sossusvlei.  The desert environment was a fascinating introduction to Namibia, and climbing among the sand dunes observing the flora and fauna with our knowledgeable guide Moses was a treat. To reach our next destination, in the far northwestern part of the country, we first flew to Swakopmund. The flight was directly over the Sossusvlei dune area and is a must-see to really appreciate the size, scope and beauty of this very unique area.

Skeleton Coast Camp, our next destination, is one of the most remote camps in all of Namibia, close to the coast and the border with Angola.  Skeleton Coast Park is a very special reserve, a huge area set aside for low impact tourism.  It is roughly the size of our home state of Vermont plus adjacent New Hampshire.  Believe it or not, we along with the camp staff were virtually the only ones there for the four days we spent at Skeleton Coast.  Daily drives, in a specially equipped (for sand) Land Rover were simply unreal, and the feeling of open spaces and emptiness were overwhelming.  We drove on endless sand dunes, had the thrill of floating down a 50 degree slope in our Land Rover and drove along the ocean beach for more than 20 miles with only bleached whale bones, birds and scurrying crabs to be seen.  Jonathan, our guide was as skillful as he was knowledgeable.

A visit outside the reserve to a native Himba village was a unique experience.  These people, one of the last truly nomadic tribes on earth, have a simple and unique life.  We felt as though we had stepped into the pages of a National Geographic magazine, privileged to have had a glimpse of their way of life. Animal life in the area is sparse, but adapted to that harsh environment.  Desert-adapted elephants, oryx, giraffe and lions were seen.  Also, we were able to deliver supplies we had brought to a small local school.  The nearest other school was some 150 miles away.

Little Ongava camp was next – a beautiful, elegant setting on top of a hill within a private reserve adjacent to the famous Etosha National Park. This area was much less arid, and game was plentiful, including sightings of both white and black rhinos.  Birds were plentiful and varied.  We had the very unique experience of getting stuck, really stuck in a muddy area made worse by recent rain.  It takes a lot to stop a Land Rover, and we spent a couple of hours before being extracted by two rescue Rovers, a lot of helpful and not-so-helpful suggestions from staff who came to the “rescue”.  Lots of laughs as well!  Guide Gabriel made our time at Little Ongava really special.

Next, it was on to Botswana by way of Maun, which is the pivotal town for the entire area.  Another smooth transfer and we were off to Duba Plains, which is perhaps the most remote camp in all of the Okavango Delta, accessible only by air.  This camp was the setting for the National Geographic film “Relentless Enemies” which documents the relationship between lion predators and buffalo prey.  The lions of Duba, some of the largest and strongest in all of Africa did not disappoint – we saw eating, sleeping, mating, stalking and socializing lions.  A leopard family was spotted, an exciting event as they seem to be re-colonizing the area after a long absence.   Of course, many plains animals, elephants, giraffes and again, birds galore.  At Duba, we saw what snorkel-equipped Land Rovers can do in a watery environment as we had to cross a marshy area on each drive. Our guide James “007” is a thirteen year veteran of Duba Plains, an unusually long tenure.  He explained to us that he had many opportunities to move to other camps as many do.  He clearly knows Duba like the palm of his hand and remains because he loves it deeply.

Next, we headed to Little Vumbura Camp, a unique camp located on a small island  reached by a short boat ride.  The camp is elegant, beautifully situated  with waterways (“Hippo Highways”) all around so we were able to have some special experiences on the water.  On land one day, we drove through a grassy area where there were many carmine bee-eaters.  They found that is was profitable to follow us closely as the wheels scared insects into flight as we drove.  They followed us on all sides alongside the vehicle like precision jet fighters, sometimes at arm’s length.   What an exhibition!   Our guide “K” was a bird caller supreme and one evening imitated a black cuckoo to the point where they had an extended running dialog.  Again, at Little Vumbura Camp, there was no shortage of animals, and we never tired of seeing them all in different settings.  Sable antelopes, an uncommon sighting, were spotted on several occasions.

Our next-to-last camp was Little Mombo Camp.  It has to rank at or near the top of the list of outstanding safari locations anywhere.  The camp itself is unique in that the lodges and the walkways between them are all built on stilts so that animals can circulate freely “in, under, around and through” the camp.  On several mornings we had a bull elephant eating leaves just feet away from where we ate breakfast.  There was an abundance of wildlife of all kinds everywhere.  Our guide “Tsili”, a big man with a most hearty laugh was yet another knowledgeable and friendly credit to the Wilderness Safaris organization.

The very special highlight of our Mombo visit was the surprise appearance of Sue Rovegno and her husband Marco, who were on a familiarization tour of a number of camps.  I had worked with Sue over the phone for something like seven years, in my role as trip planner.  Sue and I shaped the itinerary and she very capably handled the details.  Our friends Ursula and Walter had met Sue at an airport stopover in Minneapolis several years before.  My wife and I never had although I had gotten to know her “smiling voice” pretty well over the years.  We were in on the surprise, our friends were not.  We knew that some new guests were going to appear, and we played up the idea of checking the new folks out to see if we would allow them to join us at Mombo.  When Sue and Marco showed up, just seeing Ursula’s face as it slowly dawned on her that she recognized Sue, but there she was, completely out of context.

We had more fun, and more laughs over the following days…..as the kids would say, “a blast”.

We “met” the leopard that was featured in the “Eye of the Leopard” National Geographic film – with an impala kill up in a tree and two youngsters nearby.  This was a close-up encounter with them and with a number of hyenas eager to snatch scraps and clean up leftovers.

The finale at Mombo was seeing a buffalo kill by a pride of nine lions; a little gory, but an amazing thing to watch.  We witnessed the scene over two days, with the buffalo providing meals for all the lions, many hyenas, jackals, vultures, and smaller birds.  We learned later that by the end of the third day, there was nothing left of this huge animal but the skull and horns.

Outdoor evening meals and a surprise lunch set up by a hippo pool are among many special memories of Mombo.

Our final camp was King’s Pool, named after a visit some years ago by the king of Sweden.  It is located on the river which forms the border between Botswana and Namibia.  Another beautiful camp in a very special setting.

We had a very good leopard sighting with a chance for some close-up pictures.  The grandest of grand finales of our unforgettable trip occurred on the very last evening.  We were riding along on a trail at river edge just at sunset when our guide looked off in the distance and pointed out some elephants headed from the Namibian side to swim the river into Botswana.  He found a spot at river edge, and we watched well over 100 elephants, young and old, cross over close in front of us in a procession that lasted the better part of an hour……all as the light faded in a spectacular sunset.  Truly an unforgettable ending to our Ultimate Safari!!!

Hallo Bay Wilderness Camp, Katmai National Park, Alaska

Four of us boarded a four seat Cessna at the Homer, Alaska airport with a young lady pilot after loading our camera gear and one duffle bag each for the one hour flight to the Hallo Bay Wilderness Camp in Katmai National Park.  Our enthusiasm and excitement was focused on finding and photographing brown bear as they fished for salmon in one of the many rivers that empty into the Shelikof Strait between Hallo Bay camp and Kodiak Island.  Our pilot made a smooth landing on the hard sand beach in front of the camp.  We carried our gear to our assigned tents, and listened to an orientation about camp routine and bear behavior.  We were fitted with hip boots, gathered our camera gear and set off with our guides, Simyra and John.  We walked about a mile along the beach, keeping an eye out for any bear who might be fishing at the mouth of the river or digging for clams in the tidal area.

We trekked another couple of mile or so up a river whose name I don’t know and found a spot on a rocky islet where we set up our camera gear, tried to find a comfortable sitting position, and waited.  The temperature was about 65 degrees and John said to a bear this was pretty warm, and so they might not be very active until later in the day.  My enthusiasm began to wane a bit until John quietly said “bear at 11 o’clock.”  I watched a large female brown bear make her way out of the wooded river bank into the water.  She splashed around a bit, as if she was playing with some unseen water toy, making what seemed to me a rather feeble attempt to catch a fish.  Her thick amber-colored winter coat sparkled in the sun.  The salmon were so plentiful she didn’t have to work very hard and she seemed to be very picky.  She rejected several fish before finding a keeper.  I was so excited to be so close to this beautiful animal (maybe 20 ft) I forgot for a moment that I had a camera and I just enjoyed the experience.  Being with this bear in her environment was both awe inspiring and humbling – two emotional experiences that are too often absent from my daily life.   Over the next couple days I would see and photograph more bear, but this first one is the one I remember the best.