Lauer’s clue for Namibia tricked his co-anchors, who were surprised by his desert location. His clue (and what it referred to) read: “It conjures up thoughts of a child’s worst fright (Skeleton Coast), but there are no people to scare (Namib Desert) in this skier’s delight (sand skiing on the dunes).”

Read more about Namibia in our blog archive or on our website. To view the full coverage of Matt Lauer’s trip to Namibia, visit the Today show website.

At first glance, Namibia might seem like one of Earth’s most desolate places and may appear to offer little to interest the average traveler. Yet within its borders there are treasures and startling beauty not found anywhere else on the planet, such as the largest subterranean lake in the world; the largest meteorite ever found (Hoba); the oldest desert (Namib Desert), which is also the only desert with elephant, lion, giraffe and rhino; the highest sand dunes in the world; the oldest living fossil plants (Welwitschia mirabilis); and the largest free-roaming cheetah population. Namibia was the first to include protection of the environment in its constitution. Namibia is an intriguing destination with universal appeal.

Sossusvlei: A photographers dream

Roughly 230 miles from Namibia’s capital city of Windhoek is Sossusvlei, a destination located in the southern portion of the Namib Desert and made famous by its massive red dunes that rise dramatically from its flat valley floors. The dunes of Sossusvlei can reach heights of up to 1,000 feet (roughly 20 feet taller than the Eiffel Tower). In addition to the dramatic dunes, visitors to Sossusvlei will likely see many of Namibia’s desert-adapted animal species, including oryx, springbok, ostrich, hyena, bat-eared fox and jackal. Combine the country’s 300 days of sunshine with mammoth red dunes and unique wildlife, and you’re in for a photo treat.

Swakopmund: multicultural influences and coastal cruises

Swakopmund, a misty and cool coastal city northwest of Sossusvlei, is a popular retreat from the heat of Namibia’s inland deserts. It is here where Namibia’s unique history shines. Until its independence in 1990, Namibia had been governed at various times by Germany, Great Britain and South Africa. Today, customs, art, architecture and food reflect these African and European influences. The waters off the coast of Swakopmund prove that Namibia’s allure extends beyond the land alone. Visitors here can enjoy a boat cruise to view Cape fur seals, rare Heaviside’s dolphins and unique birdlife that call Namibia’s Atlantic shores home.

Damaraland: stark desert beauty

Travel up the coast, away from Swakopmund and you’ll be introduced to yet another landscape: the rocky and rugged desert region of Damaraland. Despite its aridity, Damaraland hosts a surprising variety of flora and fauna that are sustained by the morning mists that drift inland from the coast. The dramatic hills of Damaraland interspersed with sweeping valleys are also home to one of Africa’s few populations of desert-adapted elephants, as well as the desert-dwelling black rhino that some authorities regard to be a distinct race. Visitors to Damaraland have a rare and special opportunity to take an active role in protecting these rhinos by participating in rhino tracking on foot or by vehicle. These tracking activities provide useful data, including movement patterns and health information to Save the Rhino Trust, an NGO actively seeking to save the rhino population from poaching and other threats.

Etosha: Where animals and imaginations run wild

East of Damaraland is Etosha National Park, Namibia’s best-known tourist attraction and one of the most interesting game reserves in the world because of its unusual terrain. Etosha is a combination of dried lake (salt pan) in the north and grasslands, dense brush and open plains in the south. When the sun glints off the 6,500 square mile blindingly-white salt pan it provides an eerie backdrop for animals moving through the shimmering haze. Dust in the air adds to the mystery by making everything slightly indistinct; and since mirages are common, visitors may occasionally question what they’ve really seen. Etosha is widely regarded to be a photographer’s paradise, especially during the dry winter months (May – September) when wildlife congregates around waterholes that line the pan. It is here where herds of springbok, impala, zebra, giraffe and elephant gather and thus attracting their known predators—lion, leopard and cheetah.

Skeleton Coast: shipwrecks, seals and nomads

Located in the northwest corner of Namibia, the Skeleton Coast is one of the Earth’s most remote, starkly surreal and peaceful places. It is home to misty shores, rolling dunes, rare fossils, rugged mountains, ancient valleys, unique wildlife and endless space. One trip here and you’ll understand the strength of the Atlantic currents, which have washed up the skeletons of historic shipwrecks and bleached whale bones. The combination of ocean fog, shipwrecks and enormous scattered bones give the deserted beaches a haunting façade. However, the beaches of the Skeleton Coast are brought to life by Cape fur seals that draw the attention of many predators like brown hyenas and jackals, creating a truly unique coastal experience.

A visit to the Skeleton Coast also brings a remarkable opportunity to visit the Himba people of northwestern Namibia. As one of the last semi-nomadic groups in the world, the Himba have adapted to Namibia’s often harsh environment while still keeping true to their longstanding traditional customs and attire. The Himba live in small dwellings with extended families, which surround their livestock enclosure and an ancestral fire, an important element of ancestral worship. Their customary skirts, shelled jewelry and unusual reddish skin tone (created by a special applied cream called otjize) are only part of their unique lifestyle. It’s their conversations about keeping traditions alive in an ever-changing world that visitors will never forget.

The Great Namibian Journey

For travelers who yearn to explore all that Namibia has to offer, we recommend the Great Namibian Journey, a 13-day luxury safari adventure offered by Wilderness Explorations. No other itinerary will afford guests with an opportunity to move experience so much of this captivating country.

The Great Namibian Journey at a glance:
• Days 1 & 2 Sossusvlei (Kulala Desert Lodge)
• Days 3 & 4 Swakopmund (Hansa Hotel)
• Day 5 Damaraland (Damaraland Camp)
• Days 6 & 7 Damaraland (Desert Rhino Camp)
• Days 8 & 9 Etosha region (Ongava Tented Camp)
• Days 10, 11 & 12 Skeleton Coast (Skeleton Coast Research Camp)
• Day 13 Fly to Windhoek

The next morning, I psyched myself up throughout breakfast, at times questioning if I really wanted to leap off the bridge. My husband was right when he reassured me and told me that I already had my mind made up and there was no reason in questioning my decision. We arrived at the Face Adrenaline office and I skimmed some paperwork before signing my life away. I was thankful that I just missed a group of jumpers heading out to the bridge so I had to wait about an hour. I wanted to see what I was getting myself into. Fifteen minutes prior to walking out to the bridge I gathered at a gazebo where Face Adrenaline employees dressed in red jump suits helped me step into a safety harness. When he asked me if it was too tight, I replied that it was not tight enough. He laughed and said I was fine. This did not reassure me as I walked with a group of strangers along a trail to the bridge.

Just prior to the bridge, our guide stopped us and gathered us close as he gave us a safety briefing. I was surprised when the safety brief only included staying within the yellow tape on the bridge. And then he advised us about making the big jump. We were instructed to jump off and out as if doing a belly flop into a pool. I was surprised that it was not more of a swan dive. Everyone I saw jump looked effortless and graceful jumping off the bridge. That was it; the only advise we were given. I was shocked and terrified at this point.

We continued our walk to the bridge and stepped up onto a wire mesh cage which hung along the bottom of the concrete bridge and led to the arch. As we walked the bridge shook as large semis drove along it and other vehicle honked their horn cheering on jumpers. I made the mistake of looking down past the wire frame of the bridge we were on. Oh WOW! It was a long way down with jagged rocks and a brown colored river. What did I get myself in to? I jumped out of planes previously but this was different. I had no one there to reassure me because my husband, who is afraid of heights, stayed at the viewing area to watch and take photographs. I repeatedly asked myself what I was doing there. We arrived to the center of the bridge and we were given our order. I was relieved that I was number three and not the first jumper. My heart started beating faster as loud upbeat music blasted around us. I was excited, nervous, and amazed by the beautiful view that surrounded me.

I was “on deck” and did not have much time to think about what was before me. The safety placed padding around my ankles to protect my legs from rope burn. I took my place on the next seating where the safety showed me the six foot, three inch wide strap that would hold me on the end of the bungee rope. “That was the only thing that was holding me, this was crazy!” I saw them attach another strap to my harness as a secondary safety, this made me feel slightly better. The safety directed me to stand up and helped me toward the edge. I whispered to him that I was really, really, really nervous. He smiled at me and said, “you should not be jumping if you were not nervous, don’t worry this will be great.” I took another deep breath as he and another safety helped me so my toes were just over the edge. I didn’t have time to look down and focused on the view and performing the perfect belly flop. The safeties let go of me and yelled, “FIVE, FOUR, THREE, TWO, ONE, BUNGY!”

On queue, I jumped as far out as I could with my arms raised over my head. I have no idea if I closed my eyes or what happened those first few seconds. I think I held my breath for the six-second free fall. I felt the rope stop me at then end of the fall and thanked God that the small but strong strap held on to my ankles and my shoes did not fall off. I did not feel my body snap up like others I saw, but rather I was peacefully pulled back up by the rope. I looked out over the canyon and river below. It was beautiful, absolutely beautiful and was thankful I had the opportunity to see this part of the world upside down hanging from the tallest bridge in Africa. I hung from the rope repeating to myself, “I did it; I can’t believe I did this”.

The jump was exhilarating and unbelievable. This was definitely a great experience and now when someone asks me if I would jump off a bridge, I can say, “why yes, yes I have”. If you are thinking about doing a bungy jump, my recommendations is just do it, trust the safeties and take a leap of faith.

More about Bloukrans Bungy Jumping

Read another client’s account of the big jump from Bloukrans Bridge.

The sun was already beyond the horizon when we arrived so we had our sundowner with the group discussing the anticipated evening. Brandon gave us the grand tour showing us the small quaint bathroom with plenty of water and toilet, which I was quite thankful for. And then for the open air bedroom which sat on a platform above the bush and included everything we needed for the evening. The only rule was not to go beyond the wood door Brandon shut behind him on his way out. There was no question about it; we had no intentions of risking our fate to the wildlife below.

I do not recall ever seeing so many stars in my life. We pointed out several constellations to include Orion, Cassiopeia, Leo, Sagittarius, Ursa Major, Ursa Minor, and others. The constellations shifted throughout the night as new stars took shape. The Milky Way was sprinkled across the sky forming a hazy band. It was breathtaking; I was in awe the entire evening. Knowing the stars are out every night, I realized that I certainly do not take enough time in my everyday busy life to enjoy and appreciate the beautiful view surrounding us.

I was not scared of the animals, but often startled throughout the night as we listened to the animals settle in for a good nights sleep and others awaken. I knew I was safe in this Tree House when other animals were sleeping with one eye open as hunters were carefully moving upon their prey. We definitely heard baboons, owls, impalas in heat, and many indescribable sounds throughout the night. The brush below us shook several times and as we scanned the flashlight we saw eyes staring boldly back at us, but could not identify who the eyes belonged to.

As the sun rose, the wildlife also stirred making more sounds awaking us from our somewhat peaceful slumber. Wet dew covered everything causing a slight chill in the air as we pulled the blankets back. We stared out into the wide open bush we could see in the morning light, hoping to get a glimpse of a herd of elephants, giraffes, impala or any wildlife for that matter. A blanket of fog hovered over the open bush making it difficult to identify any animals. We enjoyed coffee, tea, rolls, and fruit as we watched the sun rise. The sun lit the sky up and we knew it would be another beautiful day on our safari adventure in South Africa. Our peaceful moment was broken by the slight purr of an engine getting louder and louder as it drew near. Our Tree House adventure was ended as the Land Rover arrived with our safari mates waving and taking pictures of us as we descended down the stairs. Our safari mates were anxious to hear about the evening and the only thing we could do was recommend that they experience it for themselves.

Some destinations are better suited for family travel than others, and the moms and dads on our staff were eager to share their favorite places to travel with their own kids.

Craig’s Pick: The Galapagos Islands

“Kids really love the Galapagos in the summertime. Not only do the Islands offer a unique wildlife experience on par with an African safari, but the routine makes for good family fun. The Islands are on the Equator, and the ships cross it numerous times during the cruise so the weather is the same year round. But in the summer the ships are loaded with mature, well-traveled kids, typically age 7-17. The early morning and late afternoon activities keep everyone in the family engaged and the timing of the activities and life on the ship keeps everyone on the same sleeping and eating schedule. With other kids onboard the parents can really enjoy some downtime during the siesta (10am-2pm) while the kids have fun and make new friends. This seems to be a perfect balance of family time, activities, kids’ time, and parents’ time.”

Jim’s Pick: Hawaii

“Hawaii is often thought of as a romantic destination for couples. But what most people outside of the West Coast don’t realize is the islands are one of the best family destinations in the world. Hawaii offers a worry-free environment that is safe and comfortable. Plus, you can drink the water! Some of my favorite family activities include: watching whales from a boat off the coast of Maui, kayaking to the Mokulua twin islands on Oahu, hiking through ancient lava tubes on the Big Island, riding mules down the Pacific’s highest sea cliffs on Molokai and taking a helicopter tour to see the stunning beauty of Kauai.”

Sande’s Pick: South Africa

“South Africa is an incredible experience for kids. Not only does it have game viewing but also so many other options. In Cape Town, the waterfront area is fun for kids to walk around with parents to go shopping and exploring. Take the kids on a tour to the Cape of Good Hope where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet with picturesque crashing waves, and on the return stop by Simons Town and see the Jackass Penguins whose loud bark sounds like a donkey.

Want more adult activities with the kids? Take them to a winery for a tour–still very interesting no matter what the age. There are also wineries that have many other kid friendly activities, like one that also houses a Cheetah sanctuary.

The Eastern Cape is an excellent area for game viewing with young kids because it is located in a malaria-free zone and still has the Big 5. Kruger and the Sabi Sands have some of the most incredible game activity in the country and the most beautiful family lodges. The information kids learn from the game rangers is amazing, and they soak up the information like sponges. The lodges also give you time to connect to your kids because they really have to unconnect to the world of Facebook and the internet and have some fun time just being with parents. There aren’t many places anymore that can still offer this.”

Debbie’s Pick: Egypt

“Kids can’t help but be impressed by Egypt’s rich history when they can take pictures in front of ancient pyramids, explore royal tombs and discover colorful artifacts and treasures. From viewing mummies to riding camels, a trip to Egypt is an unforgettable vacation for kids. The Egyptologists at the Valleys of the Kings and Queens are especially great at keeping kids of all ages engaged. Older kids can appreciate Egypt’s history and culture, and younger kids will be impressed by the majesty of it all. After taking my son to Egypt a few years ago, it’s one of my favorite travel destinations.”

Note: Egypt is on the road to recovery. U.S. travel warnings have been eased and elections are scheduled for Fall 2011. We anticipate family travel to Egypt will be safe and very popular in the years ahead.

Facebook Fan Pick

We recently asked our Facebook fans about the best place they’ve taken their kids. Here’s Travel Beyond client Kathy Klofft’s pick: “Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica. We did a real “jungle cruise,” slept in a treehouse and listened to crickets all night and howler monkeys in the morning.”

Do you have a favorite spot for kids that wasn’t covered? Let us know in the comment section below!

Enrich their lives through travel

Let us know if you’re looking for new destinations to explore with your kids. Looking to enrich your children’s lives through travel? Learn more about Travel Trust®, which allows parents and grandparents to place tax-exempt gifts into a family trust.

A rare trunkless elephant has recently been spotted in the Linyanti Wildlife Reserve near King’s Pool Camp. Because an elephant’s trunk is the most important tool for eating, drinking, digging, bathing, smelling and socializing, this trunkless elephant has managed to survive in spite of incredible challenges.

Elephants drink between 30 and 50 gallons of water per day. Normally, an elephant will suck water in with his trunk and spray it into his mouth to drink. This trunkless elephant bends to drink directly from the water and eats from shorter bushes and small trees rather than stripping leaves from taller trees like other elephants. Though the trunkless elephant faces many challenges, it still lives and moves with a normal breeding herd.

The reason for this elephant’s amputation is unknown. The absence of the trunk could be a birth defect, the result of poaching snares or the aftermath of a crocodile or lion attack when the elephant was young.

Many visitors to southern Africa make the long journey with only a few things in mind: ride in a safari vehicle, see the Big Five; take amazing photos, and perhaps enjoy a sundowner or two. But there is so much more to experience, and even more to come away with, than an album of giraffe and elephant photos. Southern Africa has so much to offer – you just have to know where to look.

Anne Bendt of Orono, Minnesota recently returned from a safari in Zimbabwe where she experienced much of what the country has to offer. We were fortunate to be able to talk with Bendt upon her return. Her reflection on the time she spent in Zimbabwe is a testament to the incredible pull this beautiful country has on the hearts of its visitors:

“My recent trip to Zimbabwe has energized me beyond belief with love of the people and the best wildlife viewing…ever! I’m already looking forward to the day when I can return. I went to see the Big Five, but also saw and learned so much more. From our guide stopping our vehicle so we could watch a Yellow Orb spider spinning it’s golden web, to witnessing new-born mongoose curiously investigate our presence. Large or small, every encounter was meaningful and created memories that will last forever.”

Modern day Garden of Eden

Hwange National Park is located on the easternmost edge of the Kalahari Desert in what is called a “convergence zone” between the Kalahari to the west and moist woodlands to the east. This zone is one of the most species-diverse areas in the world, where more than 100 mammal and 420 bird species can be seen.

Bendt describes the park as a “modern day Garden of Eden” because of its natural beauty and the abundance of wildlife. Recalling a time when her guide, Charles, stopped during a game drive and turned off the vehicle, she said “he looked back and said, ‘If you sit quietly, the bush will come alive around you’.” As they sat in silence looking out at a plain filled with giraffe, zebra, impala, wildebeest and jackals, the bush indeed came alive. The sights and sounds of nature grew as time passed and their presence as visitors melted away. Eventually, an eagle aggressively swooped down to the ground in front of their vehicle, before springing back up and away with a snake held firmly in its talons.

Experiences like these may not be surprising to those who know that Hwange is best known for excellent game viewing year-round. With always-full waterholes scattered throughout the park, it’s common to see enormous elephant herds or, as Bendt witnessed, a pride of 20 lions cautiously approach for a sip. The concession is also well known for being one of the few remaining places to see the endangered white rhino, and for having what is thought to be the largest population of the endangered African wild dog.

An Adventurer’s Playground

The mighty Zambezi touches six African countries before emptying into the Indian Ocean. It’s most notable feature is the stunning Victoria Falls or Mosi-o-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders), one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, which runs along Zimbabwe’s border and separates the country from neighboring Zambia. Often considered a “must see” destination for travelers to southern Africa, Victoria Falls is visible from both countries; however, Zimbabwe offers a view of about 2/3 of the falls compared to 1/3 from the Zambian side.

Both the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls offer a plethora of activities for adventure enthusiasts. Bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge, peeking over the edge of the falls from Devil’s Pool, white water rafting, and micro flights over the falls are adventure activities available in Zimbabwe. Oh, and forget the sharks of South Africa. Cage diving with crocs in the Zambezi is Africa’s next big thing.

The adventure continues further downstream in Mana Pools National Park. The natural beauty of Mana Pools can best be compared to that of the Boundary Waters that separate Minnesota from neighboring Ontario. It is here that adventurers are able to enjoy hiking and canoeing safaris where, under the leadership of expert guides, up close views of elephants and hippos are regular experiences.

World Class Accommodations

The town of Victoria Falls itself is a tourist hub with colonial hotels showcasing spectacular views of the falls. One of our favorites is the Edwardian-style Victoria Falls Hotel. Built in 1904, the five-star Victoria Falls Hotel combines the charm of the old with the convenience of the new. Plus, Victoria Falls is only a ten-minute walk from the property via a private path. Safari camps, including Ruckomechi, Little Makalolo, Makalolo Plains and Singita Pamushana are all favorites of Travel Beyond due to their high level of service, expert guides, and abundant year-round animal viewing.

Expert Guides

The Zimbabwean guide school is considered the most difficult and comprehensive in all of Africa. Many prospects fail to pass the stringent training requirements, which ensure graduates truly are the best-of-the-best. Guides in Zimbabwe are professionals in their craft and take great pride in educating their guests. Bendt describes her guide Charles as “phenomenal” and said, “Along with his incredible depth of knowledge, he demonstrated an innate love of nature. His excitement was infectious.”

Zimbabwe – In the News

Zimbabwe’s political situation has spent plenty of time in the media spotlight over the last few years. The good news is the country is now operating under a coalition government and the US State Department has lifted their Travel Warning. What most travelers don’t realize is that behind the headlines is one of southern Africa’s most beautiful countries. Zimbabweans have not lost their sense of humor or their resolve, and visitors will see a very different country than what is often portrayed; one offering gracious hosts, abundant and diverse wildlife, some of the best walking and canoeing safaris in Africa, and opportunities to learn from the highest trained safari guides in the industry.

To see video and photography from Bendt’s trip, visit our previous blog post. To start planning a trip to Zimbabwe, contact us.

The video below was taken on a 3-day safari in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe in February 2011. The footage documents some of the amazing wildlife sightings from a trip of a lifetime.

Photos of Zimbabwe

The slideshow below features additional images not shown in our article in the April issue of Tonka Times Magazine. The article spotlights Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls, luxury safari lodges in Hwange National Park, canoeing adventures in Mana Pools National Park and much more.

Wilderness Safaris has been keeping tabs on the lone dog since she was first spotted near Mombo Camp. The following has been pulled from sightings reports published by Wilderness Safaris.

Mombo Wild Dog History

“In the 1990s, Mombo was renowned as an area of unusually high wild dog density. This has all changed and the area is now well known for its very high numbers of lions. This high lion density has kept wild dog numbers very low. In fact over the past two or three years only one very small wild dog pack has managed to exist in the area. There were also visits from larger packs but these have been only of a very short duration.

The aforementioned small pack saw a gradual diminishing of its numbers until at some stage in early 2009 only one animal remained – an adult female. It was presumed that this animal would either emigrate to join dispersing animals and form a new pack or, more likely, would perish in the hostile environment, unable to hunt efficiently on her own and even less likely to protect a successful kill from large scavenging predators.

We have all been proven wrong and this single wild dog has thrived in Mombo’s prey-rich environment.”

Social Interaction

“Wild dogs have a distinct social hierarchy, relying on group cooperation to survive. They are also highly social animals used to operating in packs consisting of several individuals. This is what is so unusual about the lone wild dog at Mombo. She has been surviving on her own for over one year now in an area of very high lion density – not normally good odds for a wild dog to survive. But despite this she has been thriving, spending a lot of time close to Mombo Camp on Chief’s Island. In her search for company she has made friends with a family of five jackals and has one or two hyaenas which tolerate her as much as she them, with all three species often feeding on the same kill, normally made by the wild dog. The wild dog even took food back and regurgitated it for jackal pups when they were younger, and is even seen regurgitating for the adults as well.”

About the Aardwolf

“We have become used to seeing the dog with her two black-backed jackal companions and the occasional spotted hyaena, which is extraordinary in its own right. Recently, we spotted her resting in the shade late one afternoon, the jackals right next to her. As the temperature dropped to a more bearable level, a scuffling sound from a nearby burrow revealed another creature emerging for the evening – another jackal, perhaps? Closer inspection revealed the dog-like creature to be an aardwolf!

This shy and rare creature is in the hyaena family, but lives almost entirely on insects, so it is not likely to join the meat-eating wild dog’s “pack”, but what an incredible experience to see these three distantly related species in such close and comfortable company.”

The Gorillas of Rwanda

by: Matt Bracken and Jayme Madson

Like Nowhere Else

Talk to anyone who has visited wild animals in their natural habitat, whether on a safari in Africa, a whale watching tour in Baja, or a polar bear expedition in the Arctic, and they’ll tell you that it was an experience like no other.

Now, talk to someone who has also trekked up the side of a volcano, deep in the Rwandan forest, to come face-to-face with a 500 lb silverback mountain gorilla and his family (that he’d fight to the death to protect). They’ll tell you that those other experiences, while precious in their own right, can never compare to the time shared with these gentle giants.

Dian Fossey

The mountain gorillas of Rwanda were first made famous by Dian Fossey, an American zoologist who documented her studies in her book Gorillas in the Mist, which later was adapted for the big screen in 1988 (starring Sigourney Weaver as Fossey). Fossey studied the mountain gorilla groups of Rwanda every day for 18 years. When her photograph appeared on the cover of National Geographic magazine in 1970, she became an international celebrity. Her fame brought with it immense publicity to her cause of saving the mountain gorilla from extinction and helped convince the general public that gorillas are not as fierce as they are often depicted on screen.

Before They Are Gone

Mountain gorillas are a critically endangered species. There are only approximately 700 left on the planet. Half of the remaining mountain gorillas reside in eight family groups within the Rwandan border of the Virunga Mountains, a chain of volcanoes bordering Rwanda, Uganda & the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The remaining gorilla groups reside in these neighboring countries.

Making the trek to visit the mountain gorillas of Rwanda is unlike most wildlife experiences. There is no vehicle or vessel from which to safely observe, no cage to look into, or glass to look through. The extensive habituation process takes many years, and gradually helps the gorillas become used to the presence of humans. The goal is not to tame the gorillas, however. They are, and always will be, wild animals.

I have been fortunate enough to visit the mountain gorillas of Rwanda three times. Each visit forever changed my view of our world and deepened my respect for these magnificent animals. I’d like to share one special visit with you. It was the most intimate and emotional wildlife experience of my life.

My Visit with the Susa Group

In the presence of gentle strength, kind eyes, and supple beauty, I wonder, ‘What am I, really?’

It is 6:00 a.m. and the light is just starting to peak over the horizon. I enjoy dark Rwandan coffee that smells of red soil and put on my thick fleece before sitting on the veranda. As I gaze over lush green fields covered in mist I see smoke plumes rising from fires in the valley. The jagged Virunga Mountains are in the distance. It is crisp and I can see my breath.

I am driven to Parc National des Volcans (Volcanoes National Park) headquarters. Several Land Rovers are already parked outside and driver/guides in green and khaki are chatting. I am one of 64 trekkers (or trackers) gathered as the sun starts to shine. Only eight groups of eight trekkers are allowed to visit the gorillas per day for one hour. I feel blessed to be a part of today’s trek.

One of the first sites at headquarters is a wooden gorilla sculpture and a pair of hiking books standing seven meters (23 feet) away. This is the distance we must stay from the gorillas. However, as I take photos of the ruler laid out before me, I realize that the gorillas themselves have no such ruler.

I await my fate as to what gorilla group I will have the privilege of visiting today. William, my driver/guide from Rwanda’s capital of Kigali comes to me and says, “My friend, you are going see the Susa Group, the largest gorilla group with 39 gorillas; the silverback is named Kurira and they are the highest up the mountain (9,000 feet). It is the longest trek.” The Susa Group is the same group habituated and studied by Dian Fossey. They are used to these daily one-hour visits from eight new humans. Theo, our specialty gorilla guide, however, remains familiar to them.

Theo works for the Rwandan Office of Tourism and National Parks and enjoys daily visits with the gorillas. Theo communicates to the gorillas in their language and knows each member of the Susa Group. As we gather on the lawn at park headquarters, Theo shares pictures of the group members. We learn their names and unique nose prints, similar to a human’s finger print but visible from a distance, before departing headquarters.

After the 30 minute drive to the base of Karisimbi Volcano, home of the Susa Group, we begin our trek. Children wave as we walk between crops, and women in bright red, yellow and orange koikois bend forward at the waist with hoe in hand tilling the soil. The crops are grown up the sides of the volcano before their abrupt halt at a stone wall. The wall is the only protection the gorillas have from the encroaching farm lands. We climb over the wall and are in their territory. We are visitors now. With the exception of a few chirping birds and the low rumble of steady breath, it is quiet.

The bamboo forest is dark, the ground is slippery, and we hold onto the trees for balance. As we climb, it becomes misty. We reach 8,500 feet with the help of our porters who hack a path for us. After about 2.5 hours of hiking, Theo, in hushed voice and extended arm, tells us to stop.

“They are here.”

We put everything down but our cameras, and continue to walk, slowly into the unknown. Just then, a juvenile swings from the vines in front of me, and I find myself in the presence of the seemingly-mythical Susa Group. I am amongst the gorillas in the mist.

Mountain gorilla groups are under the firm direction of the silverback, who is the leader and protector of the group. Kurira is Susa Group’s dominant silverback. Poppy is the oldest female and was one of the first to accept Dian Fossey. Her baby Tuyishime lifts her tiny head from Poppy’s cozy chest. At this moment, I feel at peace.

We continue to watch as they tumble from trees and swing from bamboo shoots. They eat and chat softly to each other. They are massive, yet gentle, and tolerant of my awestruck stare. When they look at me it is as if to say, “Please sit, relax, and join us in peace for a little while.”

When Kurira decides it is time for the group to move on, he makes deep sounds and gives some slaps to his chest. The bushes crack beneath his magnificent frame and with fists leading every step he comes straight toward me, Poppy and family in tow. With a head as big as half my body and hands that could crush me, I look to Theo. He tells me to relax and stand still. “Everything is fine,” he says. With Kurira’s breath on me, I take a picture from my side as one by one the Susa gorillas pass, courteous not to knock me over.

Today
I shiver now writing this as I feel such compassion and gratitude for the moment when, in the Virunga Mountains, the Susa Group walked over my toes.

“I don’t walk so proud; I don’t talk so loud, anymore.” –Jackson Browne

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