Archive for November, 2009

Galapagos Tortoise “Rarest Living Creature” to Become Dad

Posted November 11th, 2009 by Jim Bendt



Lonesome George, the last Galápagos giant tortoise, may become a dad.  Scientists wait to see if five eggs are fertile after years of trying to get world’s ‘rarest living creature’ to mate successfully.

Photograph: Bob Strong/Reuters

Photograph: Bob Strong/Reuters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lonesome George, the last remaining Galápagos giant tortoise, may soon be a father after years of efforts by scientists trying to get him to mate.

Ecuadorian officials are keeping their fingers crossed for Lonesome George, aged between 90 and 100 and described by the Guinness book of world records as the “rarest living creature”, after one of the two female tortoises kept with him laid five eggs.

George, said to be at his sexual peak, is the only known living Geochelone abigdoni tortoise. His companions are of a similar but different species. Scientists at the Galápagos national park have been trying for years to get George to avail himself of his female companions to ensure that his line does not peter out.

Lonesome George, weighing 90kg (14st 2lb) was a native of Pinta, an isolated northern island of the Galápagos. By the late 1960s, it was noted that the tortoise population on the rarely visited island had dwindled close to extinction. George, discovered in 1972, was immediately brought into captivity at the Charles Darwin research station on the island of Santa Cruz .

Scientists have been trying to get George to mate since 1993, when they introduced two female tortoises of a different subspecies from the neighbouring island of Isabela into his pen, but he has been in no hurry to procreate.

George astounded conservationists last year by mating for the first time in the 36 years he has been in captivity. But the eggs laid by one of his female companions turned out to be infertile.

The national park has said that the latest eggs, described as being in perfect condition, are being cared for in an incubation centre. It will be November before scientists know whether they are viable .

“Now we have to wait for the incubation period of 120 days to find out whether they are fertile,” it has said..

Tortoises on the Galápagos have been hunted for their meat by sailors and fishermen to the point of extinction. Charles Darwin, when he arrived in the Galápagos in 1835, described how he and the crew of the Beagle lived entirely on tortoise meat. Also, the habitat of the tortoises has been eaten away by goats introduced from the mainland.

Mark Tran guardian.co.uk, Wednesday 22 July 2009 10.51 BST Article

Posted in Galapagos Islands | 2 Comments »


The Sundowner by Seth Thomas Pietras

Posted November 7th, 2009 by Matt Bracken



Seth Thomas Pietras, Zimbabwe airport

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are few activities in life as civilized as the Sundowner. It represents the still extant link between the modern world and the wild—an activity that provides us with an understanding of who we are and a reflection upon how far we have (and in many ways have not) come as humans.

Only a fermented beverage could offer such promise.

I came to this realization during a six-week trip through Botswana and Zimbabwe in 2006—a glorious voyage it was. Each morning we would wake with the sun, consume a quick coffee and biscuit, then head out to view the animals coming in from the night. After several hours of wandering around, we’d head back to camp, as it becomes too damn hot for both humans and animals, whose preferred midday activity is to loll about instead of partake in fascinating behavior (running, jumping, roaring, eating, etc.).

So, around noon, we would all just nap it out. Then, we’d be roused for tea at 3.

Now, I profess I’m an American. But afternoon tea is an exceptional concept. It’s enough caffeine to wake the mind (but not too quickly), and there’s a little sweet and a little savory to get the blood sugar back up. Piled upon a restful nap, nothing could be better.

But wait, there is something: the Sundowner!

While the mind and body are finding their bearings as you sup from blue China and look over the bush, you are faced with perhaps the most challenging question of the day: “What, sir, would you like to drink at sunset this evening?”

What, indeed!

Do I have a glass of red? Perhaps a gin and tonic? Maybe tonight it would be best to take two fingers of single malt with half an ice cube?

This decision is important because your fate is at stake—your happiness several hours from when you place a bet on your first cocktail of the evening. (For those of us over 30, we know the importance of having a drinking game-plan. This isn’t college after all; it’s the African bush!)

So, carefully you decide.

Here’s how it plays out. At teatime, you inform the guide of your preferential potable, and this individual logs it along with the others’ choices. You then forget about it, hop in the vehicles, and head out for some sightseeing late into the afternoon. About sunset, the guide finds a good watering hole, and pulls over where there’s a fine vantage, and you disembark.

Maybe it’s all the Hemingway lodged into the back of the American mind, but the soul resonates with the sight of a field table covered with a proper linen cloth, topped with decanters and silvers jars, standing against the African countryside—which, mind you, is filling quickly with a random assortment of animals coming in from the heat of the day to take a drink before nightfall.

And then the entire situation crystallizes, suddenly.

Nighttime for animals of the bush is when everything comes to life. It is a wild time. The darkness is fraught with danger and excitement. This is when it all happens—eat or be eaten, fight or flight. But before all the creatures plunge into inky darkness, they mingle and drink. They gear up for what’s ahead.

You too are there for the same. And you see it, so similar to life at home. The predators and the prey, drinking side-by-side at the watering hole before the craziness of the night begins. We could be at any bar or lounge in the world and see the same sight. How far we have not come in behavior. But how far we have come in appreciation!

As the sun goes down, there is little left but to take in the beauty of the scene and allow a sense of wonder about life wash over us—as the spirits in our glass give us lift, heightening our senses while simultaneously putting us at ease. And this is needed in the African bush, where we willfully place ourselves back the food chain, and we acknowledge that the only thing separating us from the animals is a little bit of electricity.

Posted in Africa, Botswana, Southern Africa, Zimbabwe | 5 Comments »


Bazaruto Archipelago, Mozambique

Posted November 2nd, 2009 by Matt Bracken



Bazaruto Archipelago dhow at sunset

Matt at Indigo Bay with Luis the Manager

I fly from Maputo, the capital of Mozambique, into a small tropical airport in a town called Vilanculos midway up the picturesque white sand coast of Mozambique.  The airport has a rooftop bar overlooking the airstrip, so quaint, full of character and characters.  From the airport my driver takes me five minutes over sand roads past palm trees and waving hands to the beach, I board a fishing boat and cruise through aqua water over the habitat of the rare dugong and whale shark en route to the ecological gem which is the Bazaruto Archipelago. 

Arriving at Marlin Lodge by boatThe Bazaruto Archipelago is nothing short of classic paradise: stretches of sun-bleached sand shaded by palms, turquoise seas, tranquil dawns and magical sunsets.   The five islands of the archipelago were declared a National Park in 2000; snorkeling and diving are fantastic and big game fishing is world class.  It’s the perfect place for nature lovers, watersport enthusiasts and those who just want pure relaxation in a tropical romantic setting.  My boat pulls right onto the pillow soft white sand beach and I am greeted with a cool drink and smiles.  I stayed in five different lodges during my visit to the islands; all were gloriously enchanting in their own View from my chalet at Marlin Lodgeunique way.  Intimate lodges instead of large hotels were built on the eco-sensitive islands to allow tourism to develop without spoiling the environment with overpopulation.

 Fishing

On the edge of the deep Mozambique Channel, the Bazaruto Archipelago is Africa’s most productive area for black, blue and striped marlin as well as sailfish and warm water game fish such as giant kingfish, wahoo, king mackerel, dorado and bonito. All the lodges have fishing boats and Fishing boat at Marlin Lodgeguides.  October to March is the prime marlin season and June to September the best for sailfish.

 Diving

Mozambique offers some of the best diving in southern Africa. Dive sites are un-crowded and marine life is varied and abundant. The aquamarine waters hold a vast number of tropical and game fish species as well as rare creatures like dugongs, whale sharks and turtles. Conditions compare favorably with those of the Caribbean or the Great Barrier Reef but are not nearly as commercialized. Water temperatures range from 72°F in winter to 88°F in summer and visibility is usually between 15 and 105 feet, with an average year round visibility of 45 feet.

Dhow with a February sunset, MozambiqueMozambique Weather:  warm and tropical with average temperatures in the 80′sF, hotter on the coast than inland, the coast can be sunny all year

Winter: April – September; best time to visit for comfortable temperatures; days are usually dry and temperatures are around 80F

Summer: October – March; gets hot and humid with temperatures in the 90′sF; electrical storms and rain; rain usually starts in December or January and goes through March; best to avoid February on the coast as this is typically hurricane season

Posted in Africa, Mozambique, Southern Africa | No Comments »