Archive for September, 2009

The Wild Side of Zambia – Kafue, South Luangwa, Mosi-oa-Tunya and Lower Zambezi National Parks, a trip report from Kate Gersh

Posted September 8th, 2009 by Matt Bracken



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Hello Sue,

I had an absolute wonderful time in Zambia, in fact let me say that it was blissful!

Each national park and safari camp had its own unique character, its own ‘sense of place’ making the trip especially memorable.  At each camp my travel companions and I felt SO welcomed by the entire staff and it actually felt like we were joining little families for a few days – in Zambia, we had homes away from home. Little touches like handwritten notes of thanks on our bed in the evenings and hot water bottles placed under the sheets for warmth during the chilly nights were really appreciated. We enjoyed amazing food at each camp and were privileged to sample traditional Zambian fare on several occasions. I’m now a big fan of kapenta (little fried sardines), oxtail stew and nshima (cornmeal porridge)!

If I must name a favorite destination from this trip it would be Puku Ridge Camp in South Luangwa National Park, but it is very hard to choose one over the other.

The quality of guiding in Zambia is very high and we saw lots of game thanks to the eagle eyes of our wildlife guides. I have never in my life seen so many lions! At times it seemed like there were lionsCopy of Lion around every corner, even in trees and within our camps, which can feel disconcerting at times! I have much respect for the lion and love the thrill of seeing them in the wild, but I do appreciate a bit of distance between us! On the other hand I welcome endless close encounters with the elephants because they are my absolute favorite animal. Zambia did not disappoint as we saw many, many elephant, especially in Lower Zambezi National Park. I was also pleased that at two of our camps, my tent proved to be the most popular among visiting elephants. On two separate occasions I had the experience of observing two giant bull elephants from very close. Although I was a bit annoyed with the one elephant who insisted one evening to break branches from the tree outside and make as much noise as possible for over an hour, making it impossible to sleep!

One morning my travel companions and I decided to forgo a morning game drive in order to visit theCopy of Chiawa-logo-tag[1] Chiawa Cultural Village just outside Lower Zambezi National Park – and this excursion proved to be an absolute highlight of the trip! Opened for business in October 2008, the Chiawa Cultural Village is providing needed diversification of livelihood opportunities for those who live in the Chiawa Chiefdom. The project is also encouraging increased appreciation of and involvement in environmental conservation on the part of local citizens, as they realize economic benefits from an enterprise that is driven by the regional wildlife-based tourism economy. 

The pride of the staff working at the Chiawa Cultural Village and their excitement to share their culture (history, food, dance, etc.) with us moved me so much. This was a one of a kind experience that served to further connect me and my travel mates to the Lower Zambezi region. A safari in Africa can be about more than wildlife and I believe that the travel experience (anywhere in the world) should be enriched by understanding the location for its culture, environment, heritage, and the well-being of its residents.

Thanks again Sue for organizing such a lovely and unforgettable trip. I will most definitely be coming back to Zambia to enjoy more of its beauty and charm.

Cheers,

Kate

Posted in Africa, Southern Africa, Zambia | 2 Comments »


Alaska Small Ship Cruising: Lee Mikkelson and Travel Beyond consultant Jenny Strand traveled to Alaska to cruise with The Boat Company

Posted September 2nd, 2009 by Matt Bracken



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Hey Matt -

As you know, Jenny and I just returned from our Alaskan cruise – this was no ordinary cruise!  We hadCopy of P1030914 no interest in spending our trip to Alaska sitting beneath a jumbotron, looking out the window at the last frontier, we wanted something more intimate, and we found it!

We cruised for 7 days from Sitka to Juneau with The Boat Company aboard the Mist Cove, a small, 12 cabin fishing ship with 3 skiffs on board!  It was love at first sight.  The ship was incredible.  The cabins were huge, the beds comfy, and each cabin had its own private bathroom.  It was more than enough space for two people and all the gear we brought with us. 

Copy of P1040179We started out heading north out of Sitka and the views were incredible; the setting sun to the west lit up the mountains to the east and the water was smooth as glass.  Each night we anchored in a private bay (impossible for large ships to access) and each morning we got to choose from a list of activities ranging from kayaking, canoeing, hiking, fishing, or just camping out at the open bar.  It was hard to pick! 

I couldn’t believe the food.  The ship not only had an amazing cook on board,Copy of P1040033 but also a pastry chef, so each day we had fresh breads, muffins, rolls – you name it.  It was really quite impressive.  I would have been thrilled with a granola bar and a firm pat on the back, but the assortment of food they served was beyond my wildest expectations.  Every day we had fresh fruits, breads, halibut (that we caught), shrimp (that we caught) and crab (that we caught).  The last night aboard the ship we had the single largest filet mignon I’ve ever seen.   Believe me, none of the guests left hungry.

Copy of P1040438The crew was always ready to serve us; anything we needed, whenever we needed it.  They waited on us, straightened up our rooms, took care of launching the skiffs, canoes and kayaks, and guided us on our fishing trips and hikes – they did everything.  I can’t say enough about them.  I think it was the first time in 35 years somebody else baited my hook!

It was pretty incredible waking up to the most amazing scenery I’ve ever seen, grabbing a cup of coffee and sitting on the bow watching grizzly bears forage on the shoreline…..then eating breakfast and hiking the trails the bears left on.  It was all very exciting.  Being surrounded by rain forest covered mountains while watching eagles fly by or whales filling the air with mist was truly something that will stick with me for the rest of my life.

No TV’s, no phones, no computers, no internet.  I left my phone on the charger at my house and never once missed it.

Copy of P1040380My description of this experience really doesn’t do it justice.  The scenery was incredible, the wildlife (bears, whales, seals, eagles, ravens, porpoises, ducks, geese….I guess the only thing we didn’t see much of was other people!), the fishing, the hikes, all simply incredible, beyond words.  This was by far the coolest experience of my life. 

One week away from the monotony of big city life wasn’t enough.  Riding on a skiff through icebergs on the way to a glacier is something I could do every day.  Telling Jenny that catching a 45 pound halibutCopy of P1040344 (her first fish ever!) – “isn’t typical”, went over about as well as our guide making her kiss it for luck!  Yuck!

I only had one complaint about the whole trip – they made me get off the boat at the end of the week.

We really enjoyed our trip and we couldn’t have done it without our friends and co-workers at Travel Beyond.  You guys are the best! 

Copy of P1040257A very relaxed,

Lee Mikkelson

Posted in Alaska | 2 Comments »