Wake up your Wanderlust

Posted May 7th, 2013 by Molly Demmer

Inspiring tales to read before (or during) your travels.

By Kim Bercaw

Book Recommendations

They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. But before you take that step, there’s nothing like a good travel memoir to jumpstart your spirit of adventure. Since there are countless tomes to choose from, I’ve decided to save you some work and list some good options here. And by continent, to boot! Whether you’ve already booked your trip, or are just dreaming of doing so, perusing any of the volumes below constitutes quiet time well spent. With the hope of including something exciting for a broad range of tastes, I’ve included everything from light, refreshing reads to prose-y, literary masterpieces. You’ll find lots of classics, as well as a few lesser-known surprises.

AFRICA

Heart of Darkness by Joseph Conrad— Considered by many to be Conrad’s finest work, this dark allegory chronicles the author’s travels up the Congo River in an effort to encounter (and commune with) the region’s lawless inhabitants.

Sheltering Sky by Paul Bowles— A deep tale of survival and spiritual growth in North Africa’s Sahara desert, enhanced by vivid place descriptions and an exploration of the limits of humanity.

Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux— This book chronicles an amusing journey from Cairo to Cape Town and all the places in between. It’s another exceptional read from one of the planet’s most beloved travel writers.

ANTARCTICA

The Endurance: Shackleton’s Legendary Antarctic Expedition by Caroline Alexander-– The granddaddy of adventure novels, this book recounts an historic attempt to cross the Antarctic on foot. This is one of history’s most dramatic survival stories.

Skating to Antarctica by Jenny Diski– After spending some time in a mental hospital, the Antarctica-obsessed author decides to fulfill a lifelong goal of visiting the continent of her dreams. A humorous account of obsessions and realizations of which we can all relate.

ASIA

Balzac and the Little Chinese Seamstress by Dai Sijie— A touching tale of two young boys who were taken from their homes and sent to the mountains for “re-education” during China’s Cultural Revolution. It paints a clear picture of some of the key cultural clashes between China and the West, then and now.

Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie— When 1,001 children are born at 12:00 a.m. on August 15, 1947 in India, they are known as “midnight’s children,” and they are forever linked to one another and their country. Though technically a work of fiction, the novel really shines as a travel narrative, where readers are culturally enlightened by Rushdie’s brilliant descriptiveness.

Sandstorms: Days and Nights in Arabia by Peter Theroux–   As it turns out, Paul’s brother also possesses the travel writing gene. This book is a thoughtful study of Saudi culture that begins with a riveting search for a vanished Lebanese imam.

AUSTRALIA

In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson— The Land Down Under harbors more lethal wildlife than any other place on earth. But that doesn’t deter seasoned travel writer Bill Bryson from plunging headfirst into the culture. The result is an infectiously humorous and engaging tale.

The Songlines by Bruce Chatwin– Centered around a walkabout in the Outback, this artfully conceived narrative draws comparisons between human cultural evolution and traditional Aboriginal songlines.

EUROPE

Death in the Afternoon by Ernest Hemingway— Perhaps the most celebrated book about bullfighting ever written, this story presents Spain’s national institution as a mixture of art, athleticism, technical skill and intense grace under pressure. Intriguing to friends and foes of bullfighting alike.

Heidi’s Alp: One Family’s Search for Storybook Europe by Christina Hardyment– The author and her four daughters set out on an epic, 4,000 mile road trip in search of the landscapes of their favorite fairy tales.

Balkan Ghosts: A Journey Through History by Robert D. Kaplan— A gripping travelogue that sheds light on the Balkans, both past and present, along with the ethnic clashes and political volatility that has shaped these nations.

NORTH AMERICA

Chasing Monarchs: Migrating with the Butterflies of Passage by Robert Michael Pyle— Trailing these faithful flyers from their breeding ground in British Columbia to the Mexican border and beyond, the author embarks on an adventurous, highly informative journey that renews his passion for life.

On the Road by Jack Kerouac— Perhaps the quintessential American road trip tale, it’s a must-read for anyone with a desire to experience one of the most significant, brilliantly crafted artifacts of contemporary literature.

Into the Wild by John Krakauer– A well-to-do young man gives away all his worldly possessions, hitchhikes to Alaska and walks into the wilderness in an effort to invent a more deliberate existence for himself. Krakauer expertly weaves together the details of the man’s life, death and the mysterious events that led up to it.

SOUTH AMERICA

In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin— Who would have known a sloth skin of his grandmother’s would inspire a life-changing journey through Chile to the “uttermost part of the earth”? A colorfully written, oddly delightful masterpiece.

In Trouble Again by Redmond O’Hanlon 1988— Deep in the Amazon, down uncharted rivers in a dugout canoe, the author tries and succeeds to locate one of the most violent tribes of natives on the continent in an effort to “party” with them. Strangely fascinating.

Andes by Mario Vargas Llosa—A photographic pilgrimage along the entire length of the Andes with an acclaimed Ecuadorian photographer providing the visuals.

Hopefully these stories will keep you busy for a while. And while you’re reading, why not ask a Travel Beyond consultant to plan your next trip? I’m sure he or she will be happy to help.

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Logistics: How to Sequence Your Safari to Include Victoria Falls

Posted April 18th, 2013 by Molly Demmer

Victoria Falls

Looking for more general information on Victoria Falls? Read more about Victoria Falls or learn about planning a visit to Victoria Falls.

When planning the logistical sequence of your trip, when to visit The Falls is a critical decision. Many brochure tours (often large group tours) that people find on the Internet start or end at The Falls and include extensions from there. While this is one option to consider (and there are instances when this makes the most sense), a custom-designed trip or private safari will afford you the opportunity to plan a travel sequence that makes sense for you when considering a variety of factors.

During our 38 years in business we have sent thousands of guests on safari. Historically, the vast majority of our guests spend 6 to 12 days at safari lodges (12-24 morning and evening game drives or safari activities). Based on years of customer feedback and personal experience, the vast majority of our customers find that 6-12 days on safari is ideal. Your consultant at Travel Beyond will happily help you decide. The number of days on safari can often be increased and enjoyed if the safari days are broken up by time spent enjoying non-safari activities, such as a visit to Victoria Falls. Timing a visit to The Falls in the middle of your itinerary would allow for a safari experience that combines multiple countries such as Botswana and Zimbabwe, Kruger Area (South Africa) and Botswana or Botswana and Zambia because Victoria Falls is geographically located where convenient commercial flights or light aircraft flights connect these countries.

One reason we may suggest visiting The Falls at the beginning of your trip is if you are traveling during the peak season (July, August or December during the holidays) Why? Because flights can be problematic due to the high number of travelers and resulting delays that tend to occur during these peak times. Visiting The Falls at the beginning of your trip allows up to two days of buffering should you experience airline delays. When planes are full during the peak seasons, a hurricane on the East Coast, a blizzard in London, or some other unforeseen event could cause you to arrive late. By having two days upfront at The Falls you minimize the chance of missing vital safari days.

Going to Victoria Falls at the end of your trip is often suggested by Travel Beyond if you are not traveling during peak season or if you are on safari in Zimbabwe, Zambia, or Botswana and flying back to the United States at the end of the trip. It can make for a very long and tiring commute (more than 30 hours) to wake up in Botswana, Zimbabwe or Zambia on Safari at 5:30 AM, participate in a morning game drive, transfer by light aircraft to a commercial airport, fly on a commercial flight to Johannesburg and then fly back to the United States that evening! Our clients often find it is more restful to wake up at a luxury hotel in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe or Livingstone, Zambia on their last day where they can shower, eat a nice breakfast, pack, relax and transfer to the airport before their flight home.

Accessing Victoria Falls from within Africa

Because of their geographic proximity, Victoria Falls makes a very natural beginning or ending to a safari in Zambia, Zimbabwe or Botswana. When it comes to logistics, Victoria Falls International Airport (VFA) in Zimbabwe is the closest international airport to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. Hwange National Park is a Travel Beyond favorite. With the exception of the Kasane, International Airport (BBK) in Botswana, VFA is also the closest international airport to Chobe National Park, Botswana. The Livingstone International Airport (LVI) in Zambia is also two hours from the Chobe and is relatively convenient if you are on safari in Lower Zambezi National Park or Kafue National Park (both in Zambia). For any other safari destination such as South Africa or Kenya, the Falls is a relatively costly side-trip.

From Johannesburg, South Africa:

  • Twice daily flights from Johannesburg International Airport (JNB) to Victoria Falls Airport (VFA) in Zimbabwe
  • Twice daily flights from Johannesburg to Livingstone Airport (LVI) in Zambia on South African Airways and British Airways.
  • South African Airways Airlink flight from JNB to Kasane (BBK) (Kasane is in Botswana 60 miles from Victoria Falls).

From Nelspruit, South Africa (Kruger National Park):

  • South African Airways Airlink flight from Nelspruit International Airport (MQP) to LVI (several flight times available per week). The major drawback of this flight is you must abbreviate or skip your entire morning game drive in South Africa on the day you leave for Livingstone, Zambia. If going in the opposite direction from Victoria Falls to the Kruger National Park area you will likely miss your afternoon game drive on the day of arrival.

From East Africa:

  • Kenya Airways flight to Victoria Falls. Due to the distance and the logistics involved, very few guests choose to visit Victoria Falls as a stand-alone side trip from an East Africa safari. However, it could make sense to visit The Falls if you are combining East Africa and Southern Africa on an epic journey or linking East Africa with Cape Town. In this case, a trip to Victoria Falls fits.

Victoria Falls

International Access to The Falls

There are many options for getting directly to The Falls from the United States. The most common options we recommend to our clients are summarized here and often depend on our customer’s airline allegiance/frequent flyer program.

Sky Team Alliance (Delta, KLM, Air France):

    • Overnight flight USA-Amsterdam (AMS) on Delta/KLM.
    • Day flight from AMS-JNB or AMS-Lusaka, Zambia LUN on KLM.
    • Overnight in JNB or LUN on arrival.
    • Morning flight JNB-LVI/VFA on South African Airways (SAA) or British Airways (BA)
    • OR Morning flight LUN-LVI on Proflight.

*Flights work the same in the opposite direction but with no overnight required.

One World Alliance (British Airways, American Airlines):

    • Overnight flight from USA-London (LHR) on American Airlines (AA) or BA
    • Overnight flight LHR-JNB or LHR-LUN on BA.
    • Morning flight JNB-LVI/VFA on BA
    • OR Morning flight LUN-LVI on ProFlight.

*Flights work the same in the opposite direction but with no overnight required.

Star Alliance (option 1) (United, US Air, South African Airways):

    • Overnight from New York (JFK)–JNB–LVI/VFA. Flight leaves JFK late in the morning.

*Flights work the same in the opposite direction but with no overnight required.

Star Alliance (option 2):

    • Overnight flight Washington DC Dulles (IAD)–JNB.
    • Overnight in JNB on arrival.
    • JNB-LVI/VFA on South African Airways.

*Flights work the same in the opposite direction but with no overnight required.

There are many other options that we can present to you on the phone or in person during your consultation. Travel Beyond has a full service air department and prefers to book your entire trip door-to-door from your home for convenience and also to control all the factors of your trip, which allows us to provide the best service. Many of our clients live in Western Europe, Russia or Australia. We can easily help you choose and book the best flights for your particular trip.

We always say the small things make a world of difference when planning a safari. Our consultants will happily guide you in choosing if a visit to Victoria Falls should be included with your safari. Thanks for considering Travel Beyond!

Looking for more general information on Victoria Falls? Read more about Victoria Falls or learn about planning a visit to Victoria Falls.

Posted in Africa, Travel Planning, Zambia, Zimbabwe | No Comments »


Visiting Victoria Falls

Posted April 18th, 2013 by Molly Demmer

Victoria-Falls1

Victoria Falls (often simply called The Falls) is one of the largest waterfalls in the world and the tallest waterfall in Africa. Of all the non-safari activities in Africa that typical first-time visitors will inquire about, a trip to The Falls is on top of the list. Along with the Nile River, Sahara Desert, the Serengeti and Mt. Kilimanjaro, Victoria Falls is one of the best-known geographic features in Africa.

Forming the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, the Zambezi River’s 108-meter waterfall is a popular destination for travelers to Southern Africa. Explore the majestic falls on a footbridge close enough to be drenched by the warm mist or from an aerial viewpoint on a helicopter tour. The breathtaking waterfall, considered the largest sheet of falling water in the world, is certainly worth a visit if it fits into your safari plans.

Decisions about the Falls

Once you decide to go to Victoria Falls your next decisions are (1) which side (Zimbabwe or Zambia), (2) how long to stay, and (3) where to stay.

Which Side

First, it is important to note that no matter which side you choose, it is easy to visit the other because it is a short (less than one hour) walk between them.

If you are on safari in Zimbabwe or Zambia, we suggest you choose the same country for your visit to The Falls. By choosing the same country you can save money on visa fees and logistics. You will likely save transfer time as well. If your safari plans include a visit to Botswana, the “which side” decision may come down to your travel goals when considering logistics, cost and entry requirements for Zambia or Zimbabwe. Your Travel Beyond consultant will discuss these considerations with you during a trip consultation.

Zimbabwe

It is not uncommon for our clients to express some fear when we suggest visiting the Zimbabwe side of The Falls. Unfortunately, Zimbabwe does get more than its fair share of negative press coverage. In reality, the destinations we send our clients are far removed from any of the political centers where unrest has occurred. Advising someone to not visit Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe would be the equivalent of telling someone to not visit Yellowstone because of violence in Los Angeles.

Zimbabwe is one of Travel Beyond’s favorite safari destinations and one of the most surprising places we send our clients. They simply love it! If you follow our owner Craig Beal on Trip Advisor or other forums he has often described Zimbabwe as the best value for money in all of Africa. For the past three years, Craig has been the only person on Travel + Leisure’s annual A-List of the World’s best Travel Agents specifically listed as an expert on Zimbabwe.

The town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe is best described as a resort town. It is safe to walk around and enjoy modern restaurants, four- and five-star hotels, an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, and plenty of activities. The Zimbabwean people are also very warm and friendly, albeit a bit eager to sell their wares at times.

Zambia

Another factor that may influence the “which side” decision is the time of year. The Falls can often be completely dry on the Zambia side from late August until December based on historical weather patterns. Even if the Falls are dry on the Zambia side you can still see water flowing on the Zimbabwe side from the Zambia side, however, the experience is different. Your Travel Beyond consultant will advise you on the pros and cons of each side give the time of year of your visit.

There is one unique experience which can only be had when visiting the Zambia side during the dry season: a visit to Devils Pool. Devil’s Pool is one of the most unique natural attractions The Falls has to offer. If you dare to swim in Devil’s Pool, a guide can hold your legs while you hang over the edge of The Falls!

The final consideration in determining on which side of The Falls to stay is wildlife viewing. Many of our clients are trying to complete a Big Five Safari (elephant, buffalo, rhino, leopard and lion) in Botswana, Zimbabwe or Zambia during their trip. While on safari in these countries, it can be difficult to see rhino. It is possible (although not guaranteed) to see rhino in Livingstone, Zambia, making a visit to the Zambia side ideal for wildlife enthusiasts. There are several rhino in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, which is 10 miles upstream from The Falls in Zambia. The rhino here are in the wild but they are closely monitored by anti-poaching paramilitary forces.

Game drives to see these rhino are included in the rates at some of our favorite properties on the Zambia side. Game drives can also be purchased as an activity from the concierge desk when staying at most other properties in the area.

As a general rule, you won’t see rhino in the wild anywhere else in Zambia; however, there is a small chance you will see them in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. In Botswana, there is also a small possibility to see rhino during a stay at Mombo Camp and a much smaller chance to see them anywhere else in Northern Botswana. If it is the Big Five you are after, a stay in Livingstone, Zambia instead of Zimbabwe may be the best option!

Victoria Falls

How long to stay

Deciding how many nights to stay depends on your interests, budget, and overall travel plans. If your lifetime travel bucket list includes visiting Victoria Falls and you are simply “checking it off the list,” then one night may be enough. Otherwise, there are plenty of activities available to warrant a 2-3 night visit, including a sunset cruise, helicopter ride, zip lining and bungee jumping.

More commonly, our clients stay for two nights and visit The Falls in the middle of their full day. Tours of The Falls can be scheduled with a private guide, group or you can visit on your own. If you choose to book a guide, you can do so ahead of time with Travel Beyond or on arrival at the concierge desk at your hotel or resort.

Where to stay

Our consultants hold salaried positions and do not earn commission on sales. We contract directly or through local consolidators with every accommodation option rated four-star and above on both sides of The Falls. Therefore, our recommendations are biased only by our consultant’s personal experiences and the information they learn about you during your consultation(s). It is important to share as much as you can about your previous travels, likes, dislikes, budget and travel style with your consultant so he or she can help you decide. There are too many accommodation options to discuss in this post. One reason to consider an option away from The Falls is because of the tourist helicopter noise. This can often be heard mid-day when staying at the hotels that are in close proximity to The Falls.

Read more about visiting Victoria Falls or learn about the logistics of adding a trip to Victoria Falls to your safari.

Posted in Africa, Travel Planning, Zambia, Zimbabwe | No Comments »